10 posts tagged “vietnam”

Leftover Vietnam Musings...pt 2

Mar 16, 2009
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Not many thoughts in the end haha! But here's the final part of it. The rest of the stuff I thought about and wrote during my trip can't be shared with you guys sorry!

Stoned

Halong Bay & Cat Ba Island

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I admit Halong Bay was a beautiful spot and I can see how magnificent the location is. For the life of me though, I can't see how some of those rock formations got their names. I tried. I really did. But some of those names left me scratching my head! I could only nod in agreement when my guide pointed out the rocks to us, take a quick snap and then squint and stare very hard to make the connection! Maybe I just don't have a very good imagination. What were those Vietnamese fishermen smoki

Surreal

Halong Bay & Cat Ba Island

I've experienced many moments that make me go "WTF?!" but this ranks quite high up there on the surreal table. There I was, floating peacefully on a boat down Halong Bay. The sun was getting ready to set and we've just finished an afternoon of marvelling at the gorgeous rock formations and caves that the Bay boasted. As we came to the end of our tour, activities on the boat had pretty much wound down. Our guide was busy below deck as we neared Cat Ba Island, and we were all rather tired.

I was freezing, but enjoying the moment, as the evening breeze said hello and the rocks stared down at us instead. My fellow tourmates were either busy snapping photos, napping or chatting about their coming stay on the boat. Suddenly I heard the sounds of a harmonica. The song was faintly recognisable but I think it was Frank Sinatra's 'My Way'. I stopped to stare at the Korean guy who was playing, wondering if I was imagining the whole thing. I turned my gaze back to the cool blue water of the bay, and I chuckled.

Peace

Halong Bay & Cat Ba Island

After the assault on my privacy and senses that is Hanoi, it was nice to find solitude on Cat Ba 2 beach. As I write this, the place is practically deserted, save for the handful of staff and some bored-ass tourists mucking around. The only sounds in the background are the crashing of the waves and the spluttering of a motorboat heading out to sea. I did my 2009 lifeplan during my 2.5hours on that beach. It was definitely worth the 2km trek from my hotel.

Leftover Vietnam Musings...pt 1.

Mar 15, 2009
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During my trip to Hanoi in January, I jotted down a few thoughts in my Moleskin. I've finally gotten around to post them on my blog. Randomness really. Better late than never! Part 1 of 2.

Stay Cool

Faces of Hanoi

Chilling in Hanoi takes on a different meaning during the winter months (as I found out). With temperatures hovering around 18 Deg. Celsius in the day and dipping to a low of 13 Deg. Celsius at night, I've hardly taken off my jacket here. I even sleep with my socks on because it's freezing!

How anyone can stroll about in a pair of bermudas and a thin t-shirt is beyond me. In fact, I asked this British dude I met on my Halong Bay tour how he was the surviving the weather as such. He admitted, he wished he'd brought his jacket at least. I bet a lot of tourists realised their folly upon arrival, though to be fair, if you'd compared Hanoi to Ho Chin Minh, it's never so chilly in HCM.

Thank goodness for roadside stalls selling hot green tea to warm up your engines. They cost pittance and offer welcome relief. Plus they're great pit-stops after a long walk, so you can tank up on tea or coffee and a cigarette or two (or three) before getting lost again.

Fashion Forward

Hoan Kiem Lake

The Vietnamese folks never fail to impress me with their fashion consciousness. The younger folks are all about looking flashy with the latest brand names but it's the older generation who earn my admiration for their stylishness. They all looked so prim and proper whether in their colourful, traditional outfits or their European-influenced wear - full tweed suit, with matching vest and flat cap anyone? Like most of Hanoi and its buildings, the elder Hanoians ooze old school cool.

Hanging in Hanoi - the evidence

Jan 30, 2009
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Hello.

While I find the time to pen down my thoughts from my recent Hanoi escape, please feel free to peruse the many photos I took on my spanking new Canon G10. It's only about 1-month old with me but I am already in love with it. I think it's the start of a beautiful friendship. Uh, my photos are on my Flickr account.

I've split them into various sets so yeah, do check them out if you have the time. If you're on Flickr, add me as a contact or something. The posts to come soon! Work's getting crazy and I still can't shake off the nuah-ness.

The Prince 57 Crew

Hoan Kiem Lake

Halong Bay & Cat Ba Island

Faces of Hanoi

Hanging in Hanoi pt. 1

Jan 14, 2009
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If I wrote what exactly I did every day of my week-long trip to Vietnam, you might get bored. So I thought while waiting to upload my 1,000 (thereabouts) pictures on Flickr, I'll share some of the thoughts that popped into my head during my getaway. They're pretty random but I think that probably captures the spirit of the trip as well. I'll jot them down over the next few posts as I collect and try to make sense of the the dribs and drabs I scribbled in my moleskin.

Tale of 2 Cities

Hanoi is not Saigon and Vietnam is not Thailand. Don't mix them up. The Thais, in my opinion, remain the warmest folks I've met and offer the best variety and quality in terms of food and well, maybe shopping, in our region.

Vietnam is an economy on the rise and its people are quick to warm up to capitalism. The people are slightly more brusque in their everyday dealings, though you can't read that as rude, merely more direct. Bargaining doesn't really exist but they can be nice, just not Thai-nice. Still, so long as you treat others with respect, it's okay but they're quick to try and pull off a quick one. You can get quoted 5 difference prices for the same thing while walking down the same street. Honest.

And although I was in Saigon for only about 3 days before, I feel that the people there are more laidback than the Hanoi-ans. Maybe not so aggressive for a sale and the traffic wasn't so crazy. And of course, weather-wise, Hanoi has the four seasons while Saigon is hot or rainy (apparently). That sounds like Singapore no? I enjoyed my stay in Hanoi despite the exterior "coldness" of the place. I was beginning to fit in well! Esp since people either thought I was Thai or local. I had a ball sitting by the road of my hotel eying the tourists walking up and down. I think I'll miss that the most.

Horn-Oi

They should seriously consider re-naming Hanoi, Horn-Oi. The crazy traffic means incessant honking throughout the entire day and pretty much everywhere. Those who stay near the busier intersections probably need mufflers. The best part is nobody really gets angry at being honked at; it's become part and parcel of their everyday commute and for pedestrians, it's definitely useful to know you're in harm's way. Although anytime you're putting yourself on those roads means you're definitely in harm's way! I'm glad I've been to Vietnam before though, I was crossing the roads like a pro!

Oi will be your adopted name as people address you, trying to get your attention in some way. 1-hour cyclo ride around the city, massage boom-boom, taxi offer to wherever it is you look like you're headed...Just smile politely and decline. And don't look lost, even if you are lost (like I was when I got off the bus from the airport). That definitely attracts the vultures. Just walk like you know where you are going (like I did but I didn't really know where I was going, I walked 15mins down the wrong direction). But I don't understand why some tourists need to be so rude going about declining these folks and every other peddler they meet. Smile, say no and walk on.

chilled out.

Jan 13, 2009
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well, i'm back in singapore after a week in and around Hanoi, specifically, Hanoi, Halong Bay and Cat Ba Island. I have to say the weather was cold because it's winter. I expected that but didn't expect temperature to dip so low. I think it hovered around 13 - 18 deg. celsius while i was there which is pretty chilly coming from humid singapore. Still it was great to wear my jacket every day and sport a scarf too. Although wearing the same jeans night and day for 7days straight didn't hit me till I reached the airport. ditto for the cigarette-reeking jacket. I wouldn't mind some of that cold here!

the truth is, i wasn't there as a tourist per se. As in, I wasn't there to sight see all that much. I fitted in whatever i had time (or desire) to view and just did my own thing for the most part. I tried to get what I could for those who asked. If I didn't well, this trip isn't about them.

Ultimately, I wanted to get away from people, home, office, whatever is familiar around me. I wanted time and peace alone.Me-time. To Plot. Reminisce. Forget. Forgive. Cut. Focus. To Think about the year past. the year that's now and to sort things out in my life, especially now that i'm 30. For the most part, it was a productive trip.

Funnily, Hanoi probably isn't the best of places for quiet reflection, considering its crazy-ass traffic but I found solitude on Cat Ba Island and its pretty desolate beach(it is winter after all). I managed about 2 1/2 hours of thinking and self-debate which was really productive. The 1km trek up-slope was definitely worth it. Some of those little observations I'll post up soonish, along with the pictures.

I need to settle some administrative matters firstly so later peeps.

takin a break

Jan 6, 2009
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i need to leave for the airport in about 3hours. i'm about half-packed. i am unsure where or what i'm gonna do in Hanoi. Am I going to Sapa? China?? Halong? I haven't decided. Damn it. Okay that's another resolution - be more decisive. and uh, don't be so distracted. okay i should stop blogging now and finish packing etc. Will try and update if i can.

peace voxland.

kaz

headed to hanoi

Sep 16, 2008
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Well, in January la. I booked my trip from 6 to 13 January on Tiger Airways because they had a promo of some sort. Haven't really figured out the details but I figured I'd make a quick run to Halong Bay for first 2 days, sleep to Hue for another 2 and then come back and chillax in Hanoi till it's time to fly home.

Roughly this was what went through my head:

6 - touch down Hanoi (830am). Find a way to Halong (self tour?)

7 - Halong to Hanoi. Hanoi to Hue (sleeper train?)

8 - Hue

9 - Hue. Hue to Hanoi (does sleeper train go in reverse?)

10 - Hanoi

11 - Hanoi

12 - Hanoi

13 - Hanoi to SG. Flight departs 9am.

I probably won't even overnight in Hanoi till the 5th day. I hope this old soul can stand the train journeys.

Does that sound like a plan? And if yes, please, tell me the must-not-miss spots in Hanoi and erm, whether 2 days in Hue is enough (well, okay time is never enough I know). Then again, that doesn't leave me much time in Hanoi.

I'm not looking for a super-touristy visit, very casual and see what I can see kinda thing. Any comments are much appreciated.

Vox Hunt: Enjoy The Sunset

Mar 10, 2007
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Show us your favorite sunset picture.
Submitted by B. Mag.

I have a few actually:

Sunset in Nathon 2

This was taken in Nathon, Koh Samui. An island off Thailand where I enjoyed many years of fun, partying and magical moments with some special people.I truly enjoyed my experiences there with my friends. Nathon itself is the capital of Samui, not the usual tourist haunt but some good bargains there if you look hard enough.

Sunset in Saigon

I kinda missed this shot because we were trying to find some shop or ATM in Saigon. Managed to spot if before it was too late. It was something to stand amidst all the motos whizzing by to take this. Saigon was a pretty cool place but I'm still terrified by the traffic!

good as gold

Lucky shot I took in the bus heading back to Phnom Penh from Saigon. Pure luck but I love it.

Sunset from the lake

This was the view from the No Problem Guesthouse at Boeung Kak Lake in Phnom Penh. It wasn't the cleanest place to stay nor the closest to the main attractions but I liked it. Friendly folks, cool neighborhood and the chance to chill by the water. After the hustle and bustle of the city and the locals trying to make you part with your money, it was a welcome respite to just sit back and take it all in. And from only USD$3/night.

The Stones Revival: a short peek into cambodia [part 1 of um, a few]

Feb 25, 2007
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Angkor Wat

The Angkor Wat intrigues me. I'd heard a lot about it from friends' accounts, documentaries, pictures, movies etc and there's this aura of mystery that fascinates me. I mean, sure the Pyramids of Giza, MachuPichu et al exist but their history has been more or less documented quite extensively whilst these magnificent structures in South East Asia don't quite get as much airtime as they possibly deserve. I love ancient civilisations and learning more about them. It's always fun to imagine. I also love Arthurian legends and stories about Atlantis.

(Interesting random fact: I thought I noticed some similarities between some of the statues they found in Cambodia with pictures of statues from the Egyptian pyramids. No photos to compare though, I saw them at the National Museum in Phnom Penh but I swear the statues of the Hindu gods were wearing the same headpieces as those Egyptian ones)

Before I recount the travelling bit, a relatively concise history of modern Cambodia:

Cambodia is a study in contrast, known as much as for its magnificent temples to its legendary Killing Fields.It is far light years from the time when the mighty Khmer empire ruled over much of present-day Vietnam, Laos and Thailand (during the Angkor period circa 9th - 14th century AD). Her people are currently recovering from twenty years of warfare and violence, including 4 dark years (1975 - 1979) under the genocidal Khmer Rouge (French for Red Khmer) when the lives of nearly two million Cambodians were lost.

Previously controlled by the French, independence was declared in Cambodia in 1953. Cambodia got drawn into the Vietnam conflict in the late 60s as Vietnamese communist forces used it to bypass dangerous territories to counter the Americans. The US and South Vietnamese troops started targetting suspected communist base camps in Cambodia but all they achieved was to push Cambodia's indigenous rebels, the Khmer Rouge, further inland and soon severe fighting engulfed the entire country.

In April, 1975, Phnom Penh fell to the Khmer Rouge in one of the most extraordinary scenes ever. Under their leader, Pol Pot, they forced all the city's inhabitants into the countryside as the organisation sought to transform Cambodia into a Maoist cooperative. Dramatically, the city emptied in hours, a stark contrast to the jubilant scenes that had been celebrating the end of the Vietnam War. Hundreds and thousands of Cambodians, including many of the educated and government-linked, were relocated to the countryside to toil or be interrogated whilst many more were systematically tortured to death or died due to malnutrition or disease. The reign of the Khmer Rouge ended in 1978 when Vietnam invaded Cambodia. However, the rebels maintained a guerilla war (with the backing of China, Thailand and indirect US support) throughout the 80s against the Vietnam-backed government in Phnom Penh.

In 1991, a peace accord was signed in Paris and King Norodom Sihanouk was re-installed. He had previously been in exile in Beijing during the Vietnam conflict and under house arrest in Cambodia during the Khmer Rouge reign. This marked the start of the end for the Khmer Rouge. In 1997, Pol Pot was put on trial by his own party and he died in April 1998, without ever facing up to the travesty he had inflicted upon his people. A tribunal to try the rest of those who had been responsible was finally formed in 2003 but up till now, it faces problems in carrying out its job from lack of support to corruption allegations. Find out more the tribunal at the Khmer Rouge Trial Web Portal. I believe a campaign is ongoing to educate the public on the purpose of the tribunal but most of the residents are having problems understanding the posters itself!

[Source: Lonely Planet: SEA on a Shoestring. Get fully up to speed on Cambodian history at this site.]

Getting there

Siam Reap and Phnom Penh both have their own airports so flights in and out are not impossible either direct or possibly connecting from Bangkok. Alternatively it is possible to travel overland via Thailand, Laos and Vietnam although naturally, those take longer. If you want the full information on what airlines reach the 2 cities, visit here.

Me and my friend Chris flew in on JetStar to Siam Reap and I flew back from Phnom Penh. The flight itself was approximately 2hours long and generally ok. Good thing about JetStar is you get pre-assigned seats so there's no hassle but maybe sneak in your own water bottle or something to munch if you're not gonna sleep the whole hog. Oh yeah, I'm not sure what the actual fare is but we got ours during their $2 special! With tax, we paid $63 each, one-way.

Gorgeous sunrise view somewhere along the way (6am flight) but too bad I was on the opposite side of the plane. What I don't get is why do these stewardesses talk funny? Somehow they suddenly adopt some weird slang and I couldn't understand 80% of what they said on the damn plane!

Siam Reap International Airport

Touching down, what hit me was the cold. Really. It was very chilly there. I thought it was because I had shaved my head and was extra sensitive to the cold but it wasn't. I found out later that due to some cold front in Siberia, it affected Laos, Myanmar and Cambodia. It was nice though. I could wear my jacket and not look like a moron. I think.

When to go?

It's recommended to travel there during the cool/dry period of November to Feb, especially Jan & Feb, as humidity is low and little rain is expected.Which was true. I absolutely loved the weather, typically it was cold in the morning, warm closer to midday, hotter in the afternoon then it cools down again in the evening. Early in the morning it could get pretty damn cold! It averaged 20-24 deg. Celsius I believe. A welcome change from Singapore.

Temperature rises from mid-Feb onwards to April which is when it gets baking although it cools down towards the end of April and then the wet season lasts from May till October. It supposedly brings out the lushness of the flora and fauna so if you're willing to handle the weather, go ahead.

Visas

Most nationalities will receive a 1-month visa on arrival. It costs USD$20 whilst business ones cost USD$25. You're allowed to extend tourists visas one-time, for a month. Business visas can be renewed indefinitely. Some nationalities don't need visas e.g. Singaporean, Malaysian and Philippines (30d/21d stays respectively). I would recommend settling all your visas and documentations before arrival just to expedite the process. The queue was pretty long and not that quick. It gets worse overland, especially if there are tour groups coming in before you. The tour guide will just cut in and dump a stackload of passports for processing in front of you. So hope that your officer is a nice fella/ lady. My bus group from Ho Chin Minh to Phnom Penh had to endure a 45min delay due to visa processing at the border.

By the way, I will be quoting prices mainly in US dollars even though the official currency is the Riel. USD is quite commonly used and most of the prices are quoted as such, even transport and shopping. Don't be surprised to receive change that is a mix of USD and Riel though. Make sure you know the exchange rate so you don't get ripped off! Last I know, it was 4000r = USD$1

Run in with Customs

Ok I don't know about you guys but I face problems at customs quite often cos the photo in my passport doesn't match so I had to spend 20minutes to convince them it was really me. The officer at my counter actually got up, went over to another counter, pointed at me and discussed me with this other dude (who was damn attitude, maybe he's not a morning person). They twisted and turned my passport a few times, scrutinised it. Well, my passport's got a slight tear by the side and they must have been wondering you know, this dude looks Thai/ Cambodian/ Filipino, why is he holding a Singapore passport?? In the end they let me go but not before his computer crashed. I had to wait another 15minutes before I could finally join Chris and pick up my backpack.

After a quick change of money, finally, me and Chris were about to embark on our little Cambodian adventure. More to come in coming days/ weeks!

Recommended sites: Tales of Asia, Canby Publications, Travel Fish and Lonely Planet

If you want to see photos from my trip, visit my Flickr page. I've organised them into Siam Reap, Phnom Penh and Saigon sets.